My grandfather
appears to have been the "official" ship's photographer.
The original captions are included even though the
author is not always clear. Added notes are in brackets
Dating the
photographs has not been easy. Key: * - estimated from itinerary dates.
HMS CURLEW's
MOVEMENTS
Most of
the (incomplete) movements are from The Times archives,
for which I am most grateful. Dates reported in the
press included "planned", "due", arrived and
departed. Plans change, due dates move, and neither may always agree with reported actuals. In addition, dates
from the photographs (in brackets) also may not match.
However, the general movements of CURLEW can be followed
in outline.
1922
7 September - returned from China
where she was relieved by newly-completed DESPATCH
YEOMAN OF SIGNALS SMITH
JOINED SHIP
24 November - recommissioned
(Capt L Stanley Holbrook MVO) at Devonport for North
American Station. Due to leave soon as she is ready for
Bermuda to relieve CONSTANCE
(Christmas - at Bermuda)
1923
16 January - left Bermuda for
Antigua
20 January - arrived Antigua
21 February - left Demerara
(Georgetown, Guyana) for
Trinidad
22 February - arrived Trinidad
7 March - left Trinidad
21 March - left Demerara for
Trinidad
22 March - arrived Trinidad
28 March - left Barbados for
Bermuda
25 May - left Bermuda around
this date
(5 June - passed through
Panama Canal)
8 June - arrived on Pacific
side
23 June - "The light
cruiser CURLEW, Captain L. Stanley Holbrook, M.V.O., of
the 8th Light Cruiser Squadron, completes today the
first stage of her six months' cruise in the Pacific,
and leaves San Pedro, California, for Astoria, Oregon.
An outline of the cruise was published in The Times on
May 17, and the places to be visited, with dates of
call, are now furnished. The cruiser will leave Astoria
on June 30, carrying out the following itinerarv:-
Prince Rupert, B.C., July 2-5. Esquimalt, Vancouver
Island, July
7-21;- Vancouver, July 21-27 ; Honolulu, August 4-11;
Washington Island, August 14; Fanning Island, August 15;
Christmas Island, August 16-17; other ports in the
Sandwich Islands will be visited between August 21 and
31, when the CURLEW will return to the Californian
coast. She is not due to re-pass the Canal until October."
23 July - arrived Vancouver
(c 26 July - President
Harding's visit to Vancouver)
5 August - arrived Honolulu
(16 August - Washington Island., Line Islands, now Teraina island, Kiribati,
south of Hawaii)
25 August - arrived Honolulu
7 September - "after visiting
several Pacific islands, due to arrive today at San
Francisco and remain until 12 September. Been on Pacific
side since 8 June, only ports to visit before returnIng
through Panama Canal are Santa Barbara and San Diego"
(9 September - seven United States
"Clemson" class destroyers went ashore in
poor visibility on the West coast and my grandfather had photographs of
them in his collection - see
U.S. Navy's
Disaster at Point Honda)
11 September - left San Francisco
3 October - left Balboa,
Panama
11 October - due to return
to Bermuda, absent from base for 4 1/2 months
1924
24 January - arrived Minatitlan,
Pacific coast of Mexico
8 March - arrived Port au Prince,
Haiti (football match in Haiti)
11 March - left Port au Prince
for Jamaica
5 April - arrived British Guiana
(Guyana)
(10 April - at Demerara,
British Guiana)
14 April - left British
Guiana for Trinidad
(3 May - at Hamilton,
Bermuda)
23 July - arrived Trinidad
29 July - "rebel action in
San Paulo, Brazil. Has just been ordered to proceed to
Brazil from Trinidad"
(10 August
- Barbados)
26 August - arrived Halifax,
Nova Scotia
6 September - left St George's
Bay (between Nova Scotia and Cape Breton Island) for Quebec,
Canada
8 September - arrived Quebec
9 September - left Quebec
for Montreal
10 September - left Wistaria
(British Columbia? - possibly error for "left with sloop
WISTERIA") for
St Johns, Newfoundland
mid-September - arrived Montreal
(14 September - visit to Niagara Falls)
2 October - (Capt Stanley
Holbrook MVO) due to leave Montreal today after 3 weeks
2 October - arrived Bermuda
24 October - due to visit
Baltimore
1925
(3 January - arrived Key
West, Florida)
10 January - left Key West with
CONSTANCE
13 January - arrived Belize,
British Honduras (Belize) with
CALCUTTA (flag), CONSTANCE and CAPETOWN
16 January - left Belize with
CALCUTTA, CONSTANCE and CAPETOWN for Jamaica
(18 January - entering Jamaica)
30 January - arrived Port of Spain,
Trinidad
with CALCUTTA, CONSTANCE and CAPETOWN
10 February - 8th CS due to leave
Trinidad for various ports. CURLEW to Martinique
13 February - left Martinique
14 February - 8th CS due to arrive
Barbados
(17 February - SS
Canadian Navigator destroyed by fire at Barbados)
21 February - 8th CS due to leave
Barbados. CURLEW to Dominica instead of Nevis
21 February - arrived Dominica
(22 February
- visits in Dominica)
end of February - 8th CS return
to Bermuda
11 April - at Bermuda under
repair
20 April - repairs due to
complete. (Going to South America in July to meet Prince
of Wales.)
9 May - "In view of the
CURLEW, Captain H. D. Bridges, D.S.O., being under
orders to proceed to South America in July to meet the
Prince of Wales on his arrival from Africa in the
REPULSE, she will not take part in the visit of certain
ships of the Eighth Cruiser Squadron to ports in the St.
Lawrence. The CURLEW will, however, accompany the
CALCUTTA, flagship of Vice-Admiral Sir James Fergusson,
and the CONSTANCE, Captain C. V. Robinson, to Halifax.
Leaving Bermuda on June 6, she will be off the Nova Scotian port from June 11 to 15. She will then return to
Bermuda, arriving on the 18th, and on July 4 will leave
for South America. She is due at Pernambuco from July 15
to 20 and Montevideo on July 27. The Prince will embark
in the CURLEW from the REPULSE on August 7, and proceed
in her to Montevideo and Buenos Aires." (for
full account of the Prince's tour)
6 June - four cruisers of
8th CS leave Bermuda for annual summer cruiser to
Canadian ports. Goes to Halifax
9 June - arrived Halifax
with CALCUTTA, CONSTANCE and WISTERIA
11-15 June - due to be off
Halifax
18 June - arrived Bermuda
4 July - left Bermuda for
Pernambuco
20 July - left Pernambuco
(was due to be there 15-20 July)
27 July - due to arrive
Montevideo
7 August - Prince of Wales to
embark from REPULSE and proceed to Montevideo and Buenos
Aires
17 August - arrived Buenos Aires
8 September edition - Photo (undated) -
"OFF MONTEVIDEO.-The Prince of Wales receiving a
Uruguayan deputation on board the Curlew on arrival at
Montevideo, the first place of call in his South
American tour. He stayed two days in the Uruguayan
capital before proceeding to the Argentine."
1 October - returning home
from South America with REPULSE, conveying Prince of
Wales, expected at Devonport on 15 October
8 October - due to call at St
Vincent (presumably Sao Vicente, Cape Verde Islands)
12 October - due to touch at Funchal,
Madeira island
15 October - due to arrive
Devonport and recommission to return to 8th CS under
Capt H D Bridges and with Portsmouth crew
YEOMAN OF SIGNALS SMITH LEFT
SHIP
28 October - left Devonport for
Bermuda (reported 14 September eidtion - "to carry relief half-crew
for MALABAR, depot ship at Bermuda")
see also
Naval Service Record
1904-28
North Russian Expeditionary Force
1919
HMS Vanquisher, Baltic
Cruise 1921
Point Honda Disaster
1923
HMS Durban, China
Station 1926-28
Royal Naval Shore
Signal Service 1929-48
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HMS Curlew,
as originally built, at speed (courtesy
Alister Greenway) |
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*possibly 1922 - December 22nd Atlantic.
Taken from foretop control by your humble
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BASED at BERMUDA
1922-25 |
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Christmas 1922 - Bermuda, Water polo |
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1923 - (dad) Bermuda |
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(Bermuda - 1923) |
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(on reverse) To Mrs E Smith, 39A James St, Devonport, England – My
Dear E. Just one of my PCs (post-cards) to
let you know that I have just received the
parcel of handkerchiefs & pencil for which
thanks very much, also to George for the
sacrifice. Sorry to rob him of it, so will
see what I can pick up for him down South in
return for it. The box smelt very nice, some
style now what. This card is one of a series
of 3 I took of the ship, selling very well
too. Fondest love dear to all yours to the
end. George XXX. PS The destroyer is the
Patriot (Canadian Boat)
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(possibly Bermuda area - 1923) HMCS Patriot in tow of Curlew during evolution “take in tow”. You’ll
see Ted Edsell on forecastle through a glass
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3 May 1924 - Hamilton
Bermuda (all of it). I took this bunch of
photos last Sat
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Bermuda Dockyard from Grassey Bay. Cross
marks where we are now laying alongside our
usual billet. Quite an interesting outlook
isn’t it. What you see is nearly all of it.
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Bermuda Dockyard from ship looking south. This
is all I can look at all day, so when you see
Curlew arrived. Bermuda, this is it? (PS) Am
afraid its rather a dark print, but there’s only
one left until I do some more |
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HMS Curlew's Rugby Team |
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HMS Capetown’s Rugby Team |
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 Rugby scrum up, B.A.A. Ground Hamilton, Curlew v Capetown, 3 pts
each
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Cenotaph during the afternoon (Bermuda with
Cabinet Building behind - little changed from
recent images) |
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Ship from roadway where photo of Cenotaph was
taken (Bermuda)(now used by cruise ships) |
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DEMERARA, BRITISH
GUIANA (GEORGETOWN, GUYANA)
*including February/March 1923 |
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Public Buildings, Georgetown, Demerara |
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Group I took of the party at Better Hope Sugar
Estate, Demerara. Cut from 1/2 plate |
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TRINIDAD
including February/March 1923, April & July
1924, January/February 1925 |
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General view of the pitch lakes, 110 acres.
The part that looks white is just water that
has collected in the different pits after
they have been dug out. Trinidad
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View of gorge, two hours hard climbing in
the burning sun to get this one. Native boys
carried the camera & plates though. The
slopes are covered with cocoa trees & limes.
Trinidad
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PACIFIC CRUISE
*June 1923 to end of year |
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5 June - HMS Curlew in Gaillard Cut, Panama
Canal. One I copied from that large one I sent
you some time ago. Am getting quite hot at
copying |
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HMS Curlew, Gatun Locks, Panama |
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PACIFIC CRUISE 1923
- continued
US & Canadian West coast |
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 Columbia Highway, Mr Boothe, Attorney & Barrister at Law
(believed Columbia River Highway along
Oregon-Washington State border)
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*possibly June - Court House Square, Seattle |
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*7-21 July -
Esquimalt Dockyard from upper bridge (Note
the activity of maties), Vancouver Island,
BC
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*21-27 July |
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VISIT of US
PRESIDENT HARDING to VANCOUVER
c 26 July 1923
In June 1923,
President Warren Harding went on a
cross-country "Voyage of Understanding," to
meet ordinary people and explain his
policies. He became the first president to
visit Alaska but while travelling south
through British Columbia and Vancouver -
when these photos were taken - became
seriously ill. Within a week he had died in
San Franciso, aged 57
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Marines and Curlew Bluejacket guard of
honour, Stanley Park, Vancouver. USS
Hendersons band lining up for march back,
President Hardings visit
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President Harding speaking
at Stanley Park, Vancouver, one week before
he died
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President Harding walking between the lines
after speech. Couldn't get a better view
owing to pressmen pushing and crushing
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PACIFIC CRUISE 1923
- continued |
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*4-11 August - Pineapple
plantation, Honolulu |
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*4-11 August - Surfriding at
Waikiki, Honolulu |
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16 August - after coconuts at Washington
Island, Pacific Ocean. Awfully rude aren’t
I. Rase in centre sat down. Middle of
Pacific after Honolulu
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16 August - got about 2 pints of milk out of
that coconut, Washington Is (now Teraina island,
Kiribati) |
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MINATITLAN, PACIFIC
COAST of MEXICO
*January/February 1924 |
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Minatitlan from Aquila to
wharf |
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Some of the houses, Minatitlan,
Mexican Pacific Coast (note the washing drying
on the grass) |
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That's me in the Panama. On
the move after a fresh beach |
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Luncheon. Notice the towel I put round that rude
Geo |
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HAITI
8 March 1924 |
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President of Haiti in bowler & pince nez |
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Curlew's Football Team
before the match with Haiti Sunday 8th March
24 (dad on left)
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Curlew v Haitians at Port au Prince
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DEMERARA, BRITISH
GUIANA again
including 10 April 1924 |
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View of wharfs & Market
Pier taken from ship alongside Bookers
Wharf, Demerara, 50th/11
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Bookers Wharf, Demerara, where we had a very
pleasant 14 days secured alongside this wharf,
taken from foretop |
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l
Loading up with 10 gallon barrels of rum for the
rum runners - cost of 10 gallons $80. 900
barrels were taken from Bookers Wharf ahead of
ship, Demerara
10/4/24. Taken with
the old 1/4 plate |
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One of the rum running schooners waiting to load
up with rum alongside Bookers Wharf, Demerara |
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BARBADOS
including March 1923, August 1924, February 1925 |
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10 August 1924 - Mule tram cars, Barbados |
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"Canadian Navigator" on fire at Barbados, taken
from bridge (built 1919, 3,099grt, lost due to
explosion and fire 17 February 1925) |
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CANADIAN EAST COAST
including Halifax August 1924, June 1925 |
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*possibly Sept 1924 - Exploding depth
charges off Newfoundland fishing banks.
Exposure 350/4.5
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Aurora & Canadian Royal Naval Barracks, Halifax
from our upper bridge. All this part was blown
up by the explosion in 1917 (HMS Aurora,
Arethusa-class light cruiser, launched 1913, put
into Care & Maintenance at Halifax in June 1922,
sold for breaking up 1927) |
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A SHIPMATE'S FUNERAL
Three men from HMS
Curlew appear to have died during this
commission, all in 1924:
Ordinary Seaman
Henry L TRUE, J 102934, 16 February, illness
Able Seaman James
FAUX, J 103187, 1 September, illness
Stoker 1c Henry J
EASEN, K 60457, 18 November, accidentally killed
falling into drydock, but location not known
(probably Bermuda)
The photographs are
not dated, but one identifies the location as St
George's, N.F, (Newfoundland). Another as just
St George's Bay. The ship's itinerary includes a
stay in St George's Bay (between Nova Scotia and
Cape Breton Island) which ended on 6 September.

In 2009 and through
the wonders of the internet, this has been
identified as the funeral of AB Faux by his
nephew, Rod Faux, for which my thanks. He was a
month short of his 21st birthday at the time of
his death. |
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Waiting for the body to come
ashore at St George’s Bay |
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Guard of honour outside the church at St
George’s, N.F. |
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Service around the grave. Raining |
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NIAGARA FALLS
14 September 1924 |
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General view of American & Horseshoe Falls
from Niagara Park, Sunday
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Taken on the lip of the Horseshoe Falls Canadian side. Sunday
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KEY WEST, FLORIDA
*3-10 January 1925 |
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Wharfs at Key West just before going
alongside Sat Jan 3rd - Florida
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New American Minelaying Destroyer coming alongside jetty ahead
of us at Key West. Took this one for the Capt to
send to Admiralty (USS Maury, DD 100, launched
1918, converted to fast minelayer DM 100 in
1920, sold 1931) |
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BELIZE, BRITISH
HONDURAS (BELIZE)
*13-16 January 1925 |
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Main street Belize |
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Canal Belize from Fire Station
Float |
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JAMAICA
including 18 January 1925 |
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18 January 1925 - 8th C S entering Jamaica
Sunday afternoon
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Finish of the aquatic Derby, Bournemouth
Baths Jamaica (50th/11)
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One of our fruit women onboard at Jamaica
(25th/11) |
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DOMINICA
*c 22 February 1925 |
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Ship & Botanical
Gardens, Dominica from hill overlooking town
of Roseau
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Taken in botanical Gardens, Dominica |
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SOUTH
AMERICA - HRH PRINCE OF WALES
As part of his tour of South America,
the Prince of Wales took passage in HMS
Curlew from Montevideo to Buenos Aires -
*August 1925
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Onboard inspection |
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After HRH had left at Monte
Video |
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(Prince of Wales in bearskin, not known if
Montevideo or Buenos Aires)
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Stern view
of a few of the people waiting to come aboard at
Monte Video (probably photographed from the
signal bridge) |
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Inside Darsena Norte, Buenos Aires
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Anyone's guess |
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From the "Time's" Archives
16 October 1925
THE
PRINCE'S RETURN
FROM
AFRICA TO THE ANDES
THE TOUR
REVIEWED
"The Prince of Wales is to
arrive in London at 3 o'clock this afternoon after his
African and South American tour. We give the
arrangements for his reception and a plan of his drive
from Victoria Station to Buckingham Palace on the
following page. An account of the Prince's memorable
Journey appears below, and a map on page 16 shows his
route in detail. Page 18 is entirely given up to
photographs taken during the tour, including two, which
reached London yesterday, of the last stage in South
America.
The journey from which the
Prince of Wales returns to-day is the fourth of his
Empire tours. Like two of the other three, it has
extended beyond the bounds of the Empire, to countries
whose welcome has been as hearty as that given in the
Dominions. The first tour, lasting from August to
November, 1919, was through Canada, and included a visit
to the United States. The second, to Australia and New
Zealand, was begun in March and ended in October, 1920.
In October, 1921, the Prince set out for India, and
having continued his travels to Japan, returned in June,
1922. This year's tour, which started on March 28, was
to West Africa and South Africa, and took in the three
American Republics of Uruguay, Argentina, and Chile.
The battle cruiser Repulse,
with the Prince on board, left Portsmouth under a heavy
sky, but soon ran into the sunshine. Early in the voyage
she met the Atlantic Fleet, on its wav home from the
Mediterranean, and in the neighbourhood of Vigo passed
between two lines of warships, three miles in length; a
stately scene enlivened by the traditional salutes and
the playing of ships' bands.
BRITISH WEST AFRICA.
The Prince's first
experience of West Africa was at Bathurst, the capital
of the Gambia, which boasts itself the oldest though the
smallest British African settlement. Only a day was
available, and its hours were crowded. There were
addresses to receive, greetings from the native chiefs
of the Protectorate, and cheers from the whole (as it
seemed) of the 100,000 population. Yet the Prince found
time, between luncheon and a garden party, to motor in a
hot sun over a good space of open country.
Another day and some part of
its morrow were devoted to Sierra Leone. After the
official welcome came a meeting with the people at
Cotton Tree. The slopes of the hillside were occupied by
a varied multitude, from paramount chiefs in the centre
to Boy Scouts on the outskirts. The Prince caught
glimpses of civilizing influence's in Sierra Leone on a
drive to Fourah Bay College, at the laying of the
foundation-stone of Government offices, at the opening
of Freetown's first agricultural show, and perhaps also
from the absence of mosquitoes at an entertainment at
Government House.
The stay on the Gold Coast
lasted almost a week. The Prince was the first person to
step ashore on the new break-water at Takoradi, and the
first to entrain on the Kumasi railway; his landing is
to be commemorated by a tower. At Sekondi, on an
umbrella-shaped dais, he took the homage of the chiefs,
who sat around him under umbrellas of red, gold, and
other rich colours. Good Friday was spent at Kumasi,
where the head chiefs welcomed the King's son at a grand
palaver amidst more magnificent umbrellas. The "talking
drums." such as have spoken at Wembley, beat their
salute; a golden sword was presented as a gift from All
Ashanti; and then native dancers gave an entertainment.
The former King Prempeb was a spectator of it all.
In this region and on his
return journey to the coast the Prince saw the contrasts
of the country; primeval forests and cocoa plantations,
woods and aluminium deposits, vestiges of past warfare
and evidences of present industry.
And so to Accra for Easter
Sunday. This was indeed a memorable festival for the
whole Gold Coast; since, after joining the British
community in Divine service, inspecting the hospital,
and going among the seething life of the native quarter,
the Prince inaugurated at Achimota a university college,
to be called by his name, where selected youths from
every race and tribe may get such an education as will
fit them to ensure and further the progress of British
West Africa.
A NIGERIAN DURBAR
It was feared that plague at
Lagos would prevent the arranged visit to Nigeria. So
grave a disappointment was avoided by landing at Iddo
for the journey to Kano, 700 miles in the interior. The
Lagosians, nevertheless, saw the Prince. They lined the
sea-front for three miles, and thousands waded far into
the water, as the tender conveying his Royal Highness
from the Repulse passed slowly to Iddo. And how they
shouted! It was on the railway to Kano that the Prince
drove the engine for 23 miles and received the proper
pay, amounting to 10d.; but the value of the whole
journey lay in the panorama it afforded of Nigerian
scenery - the swamps, the forests, the bush lands, the
plateaux, and the great River Niger.
Kano seemed familiar; it was
so like the West African town at Wembley, but on a
larger scale. As the Prince drove along the dusty lanes
within the 13 miles of mud walls, groups of natives
knelt at his approach in mute reverence. Later, on the
Kano plain, was held a Durbar, where 20,000 horsemen led
by the Moslem chieftains of the northern provinces gave
a quasi-medieval display in which jesters, dancers, even
lictors, mingled with chain-mailed cavaliers. The parade
over, the Prince addressed the Emirs, who had been
presented to him, and the people, recalling that during
the war they had generously contributed to the common
cause. A similar recollection occurred in his next
speech, spoken, during a break in the return journey to
the coast, at Ibadan, the populous centre of the palm
kernel industry. Hither came the rulers of Jorubaland
with their umbrella canopies: and here a wreath was laid
on a war memorial of the Nigerian Regiment.
Polo, tennis, and dancing at
Government House - in intense heat - provided the
exercise the Prince desired when he came again to Lagos
after this trip into the interior. The chief ceremony of
his short stay was the laying of the foundation-stone of
Lagos Cathedral. April was now far-advanced, and the
visit to West Africa was ending. The effect of that
visit was indicated by the Governor of Nigeria, Sir Hugh
Clifford, in a message to The Times given to our Special
Correspondent. After commenting on the unprecedented
enthusiasm of the natives, Sir Hugh said:-
The Prince, ot course, Is
himself; his personality would awaken enthusiasm
anywhere. Nigeria. however, has stood forth also as an
embodiment of British rule, and it seems to me that
through him it bas received a striking testimonial while
nothing could stimulate the spirit upon which the
efficiency and the justification of our rule alike
depend more vitally than his coming among us.
ARRIVAL AT THE CAPE
The voyage from West to
South Africa took rather more than a week. On a morning
of fog the Repulse was escorted by the flagship
Birmingham and other vessels into Table Bay. Soon the
mists gave place to warm sunshine, and the Prince landed
at Cape Town under the fairest conditions. In the group
that welcomed him, in addition to the Governor-General
(Lord Athlone), the Princess Alice, and their family,
were General Hertzog with members of the Union Cabinet,
Sir Thomas Smartt, and General Smuts. Such a union of
parties was but the prelude to an immense congregation
of white people and coloured people - English, Dutch,
Malays, Indians, and Chinese - in the beflagged streets.
The presentation of civic addresses, on a platform in
the middle of the Parade, was watched by many thousands;
and the Prince's reply, caught up by the wireless, was
listened to by many more thousands in distant towns and
country districts. Johannesburg, heard it, a thousand
miles away.
The Cape impressed the Royal
visitor with the loveliness of its peninsula; it gave
him diverse entertainment; and he entered thoroughly
into the ways of the place and the people. From the
abounding programme three events stand out
conspicuously. First in order comes the installation of
his Royal Highness as Chancellor of the University. To
this ceremony he was conducted, in a tented wagon drawn
by 12 oxen, by students strangely and wonderfully
attired, who, with their fellows, lightened the gravity
of the subsequent proceedings after the manner of
students the world over. The second event also was
associated with the University; with its new foundations
at Groote Schuur. In laying the stone of the new
building the Prince dwelt on the ideals of Cecil Rhodes,
to whose house, near by, he had naturally been taken.
Rhodes (he said) knew no
differences of race between the two great European
strains which together made up the history of this
splendid Union, and saw no barriers between that union
of which he was only privileged to dream and the great
commonwealth of nations within the British Empire.
This theme was further
developed on the third notable occasion, that on which
the Prince was the guest of the Union Senate and House
of Assembly at a banquet at Parliament House. He pursued
it, not only in his formal speech, ending with a
sentence in Afrikaaans, but less directly and perhaps as
effectively in private conversation with Dutch
representatives. The Dutch population, as a whole,
delighted to greet him in his movements about Cape Town
and the neighbourhood.
TRAVELS UP-COUNTRY
Early in May the Prince
departed from Cape Town on his travels up-country. At
Stellenbosch, that very early and very Dutch settlement,
he was dragged through the streets in a decorated landau
by students of the University, and at Paarl was cheered
by thousands of white and coloured school- children -
the forerunners of many such gatherings. The first
commando, composed of 160 English and Dutch farmers
awaited him at Worcester station. These bodyguards were
to be another familiar sight. So also, in the passage of
the cream-coloured train through the south-eastern
districts of the Cape Province, were the parties of
villagers who had come long distances on the mere chance
of "getting just a peep" at the Prince. The coloured
minstrels who serenaded the train at Colesberg had been
happily inspired, and went away enchanted with right
royal praise of their melodies. Companies of ex-Service
men - never forgotten by their "comrade " - were
frequent. At last Port Elizabeth was reached. Having
come through ostrich and sheep lands, the Prince was
once more at the coast, in a town of a century's
astonishing growth. Here he had his first great native
welcome in South Africa, a welcome in which poetry from
a native poet combined with music from native choirs.
For the next week the route
was never very far from the sea. Amid the festivities of
Grahamstown the Prince recalled the history of the 1820
settlers, of which he was again to be reminded when,
after a golfing respite at Port Alfred, he reached King
William's Town by way of Bedford and the chain of towns
in the Great Fish River valley notable from the old
Kaffir wars. Now came a series of meetings with Bantu
chiefs and peoples.
At King William's Town, at
East London, and at Umtata he met them in their
thousands. Many had made a several days' journey to hail
the "Rising Sun," as they termed the Prince. The chiefs
were attired in an infinite incongruity of European
garments. The Prince wore the khaki or scarlet of the
Welsh Guards. In his speeches he warned the natives
against mistrust of authority, advised them to learn how
to manage their own affairs through the council system,
and encouraged them to appreciate education.
Nearly 3,000 miles were
covered in the Cape Province. The next stage of the tour
was the Orange Free State. Into Bloemfontein, the
capital, the Prince rode at the head of a Boer commando
of over 2,000, most of whom had been active foes of
England in the South African War, and some, like their
leader, had joined the De Wet revolt in 1914. They were
pleased with the Prince's mounting the fine horse they
had reserved for him, pleased with his friendliness and,
above all, with his speaking to them in their own
tongue.
NATIVE GATHERINGS
From Bloemfontein the course
was eastwards into Basutoland where on the flats above
Maseru was a great clan gathering of the natives. The
whole manhood of the country was present, and the sight
of the 50,000 horsemen who turned their gaze on the
slender figure in the scarlet of the Guards was most
memorable. At Harrismith, having visited several rural
centres, the Prince bade farewell to the Free State,
thanking the inhabitants for a welcome spontaneous,
real. and unaffected.
He was in Natal at the
beginning of June, enjoying the Drakensberg crossing,
and at Ladysmith showing a keen interest in every
vestige of the siege and every site of a battle. Thence
to Durban, almost hidden in flags and packed with
shouting, singing people. The expressive loyalty of
23,000 Natal Indians, and the opening of a new graving
dock, the second largest in the world, were signal
incidents of the two days in Durban.
A contrast was afforded, on
the Prince's crossing into Zululand, by the indaba and
native dance at Eshowa. Another Zulu dance, but on a
smaller scale, formed part of the Maritzburg programme,
which included also the presentation of regimental
Standards to the Natal Carbineers, reputed the oldest
Volunteer Force in the Empire. Other pleasant spots in
the "Garden Province" were visited in a day, after which
some hundreds of bearded veterans of the Boer War gave
earnest at Ermelo of the welcome awaiting the Prince in
his progress through the Transvaal.
First, however, he went to
Swaziland, gaining further insight into the native mind
and customs. A wide circle was then made to the north so
that Pretoria was reached from Pietersburg. Pretoria
showed its determination not to be outdone in
enthusiasm, and, as the Prince remarked in a speech,
carried on what he had experienced throughout the Union.
The parade of children was especially impressive. It was
in response to an observation by Mr. Hofmeyr on the
friends made in the Transvaal that the Prince confessed
he had learnt more from wayside meetings and informal
talks than from set speeches, and he was glad to have
conversed with so many Transvaalers.
RAND AND RHODESIA
The weather was as cold in
Johannesburg as the people were hearty. This is saying
much, for the police had hard work to keep the zealous
crowds within bounds. The Prince opened the University
of the Witwatersrand, and received the honorary degree
of Doctor of Laws; he went down a gold mine; and on June
23 kept his 31st birthday. Three days later he was at
Mafeking looking at the memorials of the siege.
From Bulawayo the Prince
drove to the Matopos. He stood by the grave of Rhodes at
"The World's View." He saw, too, the ruins of Zimbabwe.
Rhodesia gave him some shooting. At Salisbury and other
points the Mashonas and natives from far afield came
with their homage and dances. The Victoria Falls were a
spectacle grander in their way than anything South
Africa had yet shown him. At Livingstone he met the
Barotse, and admired the discipline of the Northern
Rhodesian native police. Broken Hill marked the northern
limit of the tour.
The chief break in the
return to Cape Town was at Kimberley, though there were
several other halts. In the end the Prince had traversed
over 13,000 miles of South African soil, nearly
one-third of that distance having been by road. The
voyage from South Africa to South America must have been
a relief after so strenuous a time ashore. It was
interrupted by two days at St. Helena, which allowed not
only for a visit to Napoleon's tomb, but for an
examination of the relics and records of the island,
and, of course, Longwood.
URUGUAY
When, on August 14, the
arrival of the Repulse was greeted by the guns and
sirens of Montevideo, Uruguay might have been asking the
Prince to forget he was in foreign parts. An enormous
crowd welcomed him; there was an imposing military
display; and here as elsewhere youth did its best to
honour youth. Taranco House, a residence in the old
town, was set aside for the visitor's use; but he had
little leisure to spend in it.
A live-stock show and a
ceremony at the Military Academy were two of the
Prince's earlier engagements. Between the presentation
of an address from the British Chamber of Commerce and a
State dinner at Government House, followed by a gala
performance at the Solis Theatre, he held a reception at
the Parque Hotel. In the President's company he went to
the Pantheon Nacional and laid a wreath on tho urn
containing the ashes of Aetigas, "thinker, philosopher,
soldier." The British Hospital, the National University,
and the new Legislative Palace attracted him in their
several ways. At the last he was received by the
Presidents of the General Assembly and the Chamber of
Deputies. At a luncheon of the Anglo-Uruguayan Reception
Committee he expressed his thanks in Spanish.
"All Uruguayans, simple
citizens as well as the official world, are charmed
beyond words with the Prince, his democratic manner,
simplicity, and graciousness." Such was the message
which Senor Blanco, the Foreign Minister, asked our
Special Correspondent to send to England.
ARGENTINE REVIEWS
From Montevideo the light
cruiser Curlew bore the Prince up the estuary of the
River Plate to Buenos Aires. President de Alvear met his
guest on the quay and together they drove, in a carriage
drawn by four black horses with gilded harness, through
the crowded streets of the city. " Viva el Principe"
shouted the onlookers, whose numbers almost overpowered
the police and tested severely the crack regiments
guarding the Plaza Colon. Nor did the shouting cease
while the Prince was to be seen; it followed his visits
to the harbour, factories, and suburbs. One day was
spent in La Plata, and the chief business of another was
a military review, at which the parade of 12,000 troops
was led by detachments from the Repulse and Curlew
with
a Marine band playing "Hearts of Oak." This review
lasted two hours; at its conclusion the Prince
complimented the President on the military staff's
magnificent display.
A review of a different kind
was that of 50,000 national school children, who sang
"God Bless the Prince of Wales" in English. The
enthusiasm of the crowds, perhaps, reached its height at
the races in the Hippodromo Argentino, though it had
seemed nothing could be more tumultuous than the cheers
and shouts that rang around the yacht in which the
Prince was taken to the docks and given a glimpse of the
trade and ocean traffic of the great port.
A stay at an estancia, where
he rode, watched the roping of colts, and fraternized
with the gauchos, made a restful interval in the
festivities of Buenos Aires. Returning, the Prince spent
some time among the British residents. He inspected
ex-Servicemen on the Plaza Britanica, and in the Calle
Ituzaingo unveiled a Scottish war memorial.
The Prince met still more of
his countrymen on a 1,500 miles tour north of Buenos
Aires; a tour full of fresh interests. There were the
vast herds of the Argentine Mesopotamia, the sports and
songs of the gauchos, the processes of turning livestock
into meat extracts and soup cubes. There was also the
fascination of wide horizons.
ACROSS THE ANDES
After the plains, the
heights. The Andes were crossed, the Pacific slope
descended, and Santiago of Chile reached. Here the
Prince again found packed streets and a warm welcome
from the Chileans and their President. The head of the
Republic, at a Presidential banquet, referred in
eloquent words to the days " when your sailors and ours
together consolidated the independence of South America"
In his reply the Prince said:-
It was my hope that my visit
to Chile might have contributed to draw closer the bonds
of amity which, for more than a hundred years, have
united the two nations. I begin to fear that that is
almost superfluous, but not entirely so, I hope, for I
would like to think that my visit will set the seal on a
century of unbroken cordiality and will initiate a new
era of even closer collaboration.
These references to the past
were reiterated on the visit to Valparaiso, when the
ties of friendship with the Chilean Navy, dating from
the time of Cochrane and O'Higgins, were renewed by the
Prince's inspection of the Naval Academy and his welcome
on board the Almirante Latorre.
Valparaiso was the last city
on the long tour. The three Republics had been
magnificent hosts, and to the three Presidents -
President Serrato in Uruguay, President de Alvear in
Argentina, and President Alassandi in Chile- the Prince
offered his hearty thanks. The return journey to
Argentina was delayed by avalanches in the Andes. Some
days later than was anticipated the Repulse bore the
Prince from the shores which had given him so wonderful
a hospitality, and in which he had strengthened by his
personality the links of national friendship.
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